Couple of Questions about Water Cooling

[ozzy]

I am setting up water cooling in my compter, just a couple of things I am slightly unsure of:

1. Wiring up the pump, how do you guys find it the easiest to do this? I dont want to have to turn my pump on seperately, is there any way you can wire it up to the psu?

2. I am using an EPOX 8k3a+, and the stupid thing has passive cooling on the northbridge, so want to water cool it, but their are a couple of caps that are very close to the northbridge. You know of any coolers that will fit in? how about a using a graphics card water block, a pixelIce or equivalent?

3. When connecting the water blocks, is it better to connect them to the pump in series or in parrallel?

A bit of a long shot, but anyone out their built the fan controller at: http://www.bit-tech.net/article/51/ ? I want to build one but cant fid the chip anywhere....

Thanks heaps

[whetu]

1. Prolly the best way to do this would be to use a relay.. there are several articles floating about showing how to do this.. i'll go search for one soon

2. If its nb heatsink is already passive.. why bother changing it? I put a socketA heatsink onto my nb tho...

http://www.geekflat.orcon.net.nz/images/newbeast3.jpg

3. Depends on how many things you have watercooled, and what you are watercooling...

[Artifice]

this is how i plug my pc in

1 (a)everything pump included plugs into a six plug adapter. six plug adapter plugs into a switched socket.
when i want to use the computer i turn it on at the wall and then hit the power on the front of the case. pump comes on when i turn onthe wall socket :). so i dont have to worry about whether of not the pump is on.
1 (b) however if you are putting the pump inside your case. i guess you could split the wires up and solder them into the psu input points
2 northbridge doesnt need much cooling. but i know you can make a blorb fit if you take a hacksaw to the mounting points. oh yeah, the gfx card coolers hae the holes in slightly the wrong spot.
3 serial is best. simply because of the different hieghts it has to pump the water, you will be getting more water going to the lowest items. unless you have a high water flow. however there is bound to be arguments as people have done both... i must say that either way looks cool, and parallel is the way to go if you want lots of hoses running everywhere.
4 may the force be with you.

[Grrr!!]

The best way to wire the pump is to use the output 240V point on the back of the PSU (most modern PSU's don't have one though :().

Why the HELL would you want to watercool your northbridge. It is a waste of effort. A small almost silent fan with give it enough cooling for even the meanest overclocks.

Waterblocks should always be in a series arrangement with the pump, nothing in parallel at all.

[jeef]

my NB gets pretty hot (asus a7v333) when o/c, i know my vid card gets up to 65 (will wc that soon)

im prolly going to dummy my pump around into the back of the PSU as per Grr!!

paul rhee has his setup with a relay, i believe www.overclockers.com may have an article on that

[Method]

I know ive askd this before but cant find the thread i posted it in but.. isnt turning off and on those garden pumps eg ehem bad for them? Im sure someone mentiond that its better to keep them on 24/7. Better meaning giving them a longer life.

[Buster]

I run my pump (eheim 1048) 24/7. When all said and done it's an aquarium pump and intended to be run this way.

My pump is mounted external to the case so I just plug it into the multi box along with everything else.

[mird-OC]

well yeah it's true a pump will wear less and last longer if it's not being switch on and off all the time, in a similar respect that a compressor in a phase change unit will last longer if it's running full duty.

but that said, if you're turning your computer+pump on and off only once a day, your pump isn't exactly going to spit the dummy in a hurry.

[Volenti]

Ghetto NB block;
http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/NB_block.jpg

just a simple U shaped peice of 1/4'' copper pipe, some thermal epoxy, NB cooling taken care of :D

[ozzy]

Nice, that look like quite a good idea, I will do that to mine.

Where did you get the yellow tubing from?

I cant remember what site I saw it on, and I havent been able to find it since, but it was an additive you add to the water and it made it UV reactive. Anyone know??

Thanks

[GooGlo]

NB's put out bugger all heat, a passive sink is MORE than enough for most of them. Water cooling them is just silly, A large pentium heatsink or the like will do the job just as well.

[Method]

Real good idea Volenti, looks great!


I think thats yellow dye in the tubes. And for uv dye Danger den sells it :rolleyes: i dont know any newzealand sellers tho.

[-DC-]

Originally posted by GooGlo
NB's put out bugger all heat, a passive sink is MORE than enough for most of them. Water cooling them is just silly, A large pentium heatsink or the like will do the job just as well.

as i said before, for some its all about the 'wank-factor' :D

[Volenti]

The yellow tubing is silicon tubing (actually sold as fuel lines for mowers)

Since the only fan/s in my system are in my PSU (antec 550w)If I don't have the northbridge activly cooled it will literally get too hot to touch and cause stability problems, and adding another small loop into my water cooling was the simplest, quietest, and cheapest way I could do it.

[mird-OC]

Originally posted by ozzy
I cant remember what site I saw it on, and I havent been able to find it since, but it was an additive you add to the water and it made it UV reactive. Anyone know??
one of our gorgeous long-time forum members, ktulu, sells it through his site: coolcases.co.nz (http://www.coolcases.co.nz)...

[paul rhee]

me and sern and other forum members have made PWM rheobus. although not exactly same circut, pretty much same principle..
you can either use LM317 which is a variable regulator that puts out 1~12 depending on input voltage or a 7805 which puts out voltages from 5~12 so you won't have to worry about fan getting turned off (unless thats what you want) both 7805 and LM317 are VERY common regulators that you will find from any self-respecting electro places like sicom or whatever (maybe dicksmiths too) if you want the circuit diagram i can prolly supply you some.

look around for pics @ case gallery i'm sure i have one of my rheobus pics there.

[ozzy]

that would be great if you could send my a circuit diagram, see exactly how you have done yours. What sort of wattage can it handle? I will only be putting about 7W through it anyone, so it should be fine

either post it or email it to theozzy99@hotmail.com

Thanks