Conductive Ink??

[carlito]

Hey guys top marks for an interesting forum with more than a few good pointers for a newbie like me.

Anyways enough greasing =Þ I better get to the point of this thread....

I havent got a clue where to get the conductive ink that you need to unlock the athlonXP chips. I live in west auckland - can anyone help me out here? I know I can order it from Dick Smiths but I dont wanna wait that long. I would like it tommorow if I could.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh and I know this is off topic, but does anyone know where I could get an adapter to allow me to use a PS Dual Shock controller on the computer? Its like the best gamepad ever and I'd like to use it on the computer as well.

Cheers guys (and girls)

Carlito

[Volodkovich]

well, have u gone into a DSE, they probably have some in stock? Also, you could try jaycar? thats where everyone else gets theres.

For the ps2 thing, there is a guide to it in an Atomic mag...but there should be quite a few around on the net, to convert the ps2 controller to a gameport on a pc.

[mird-OC]

"rear windscreen demister repair kit"

that's what you're looking for... go to almost any automotive parts store and they should hook you up. the important bit is the little bottle of lacquer you get, which is conductive! yay! apply it with a pin and voila! :)

failing that, you can but one of those pen things for about twice the price from the above mentioned places ;)

[whetu]

conductive ink - if you ask nicely.. there's bound to be someone else in westy auckers here with a conductive pen...

dual shock controller - i've maintained from when i first played on the original playstation demo boxes that the playstation controller's fundamental flaw is its digital d-pad... it's WORSE than an NES's ffs. Only third party controllers improve on this flaw... apart from that its an ok controller... doesnt hold a candle to a dreamcast or xbox controller though...

(i used to test game systems for united video... getting paid to play games all day ;))

[_N_]

I live in West Auckland,
I have a conductive ink pen, which I'm not using,

and yes, if you came over, you could use it to unlock your CPU,

but wait, there's more,
I would charge you, 0$ and 0 cent's,

PM me for more info :)

[SecretSquirrel]

Originally posted by mird-OC
"rear windscreen demister repair kit"

Hmmm...saved to text file...nice bro :)

[dustyslapper]

Noone in Dunedin has the window repair kit ATM. The one place that does sell it was sold out ("I've no idea why, we haven't been able to keep any in stock for the last God knows how long" lol). I thought most places would carry it, but Repco have stopped selling it, and I then tried 3 different automotive glass places with no luck, till I was put onto the Southern distributer.

It was priced at around $33-35 without GST. Jaycar looks by far the better place to try. This was the 'Lock tite' brand stuff.

[mird-OC]

i bought a kit from super cheap auto spares here in christchurch about a year ago... cost me all of $14, i used it once, gave it to a mate to use, and haven't seen it since :)

[Volodkovich]

i dont understand...why cant u just go out and buy some silver laquer in a jar? wouldnt model/hobby shops have it?

[Buster]

I had to go with the Jaycar conductive silver (in a bottle) after giving up waiting on the dse or repco options.

Its quite a tricky little procedure. There's a lot of fluid in the bottle and not much silver. I found it best to put the bottle upside down to get a silver rich mixture into the lid. (suggest you experiment in getting the lid off first as even thats a bit tricky.

A magnifying glass would be useful but I havent got one.

My first attempt resulted in me turning an XP1800+ (AGOGA) into an XP1700+ (lol)

After several goes I got a good result (finger nail polish method - blue seems to be popular at present)

I have a Soltek SL-75DRV5 CE revision (yes i've looked) so changing multipliers is dip switch. I bought this board before I started reading these forums and I see they get little support here.

Anyway on 12 it says 1900+ and on 12.5 it says 2000+ during startup but Windows XP wont load. So fsb overclocking only it's at 1690 mhz and cpu temp 35 deg C. When the kids are gaming it goes to 39 deg C.

Its water cooled of sorts but thats another story.

I've got rather away from the conductive silver topic i'm sorry but I meant well.

Perhaps antimatter can give me some guidance to get the best from this board.

Drivel ends

[SecretSquirrel]

What do you mean by the 'nail-polish method'? Is that instead of the conductive stuff, or is that to remove it, or protect it??

Sorry if I appear stupid today folks, last time I slept was after work on Thursday, which was for 4 hours on friday early morning, since then I have worked, watched Bathurst, and been up looking after three fevered smelly vomitting babies.

Back to the subject...I didnt notice that you changed the voltage of the chip, you mention the dipswitch for the multiplier, but is there another for the VCore? If not, is it in the BIOS? If you havent mentioned it, but you have bumped it up, then dont worry, but if you havent tried that yet, bump it up and try again at 12.5x :)

I got a 1700+ that wasnt unlocked to run at 145mhz x whatever to be a 2000+...didnt do too bad either ;)

[Buster]

I used nail polish rather than glue to fill in the lazer cuts.

CPU Vcore is adjusted in bios. I've set it to 1.8

1.85 is the highest setting.


Thanks for your reply

[mird-OC]

VOLTMOD VOLTMOD VOLTMOD

:)

[Buster]

OK

so I've set the Vcore to 1.85 mbm5 is reading 1.89
multiplier to 12.5
CPU clock is now 135 windows xp loads then crashes at 136
and i'm getting 1707 Mhz (up from 1690)

the maths dosn't quite work does it. My Mhz figures are a little high. At default settings mbm5 says 1547 rather than 1533.

Oh well.

[SecretSquirrel]

135? what the hell?

Man, thats a waste of a CPU, GIVE IT HERE.


What RAM are you using? Try 166 x whatever at least :P

[mird-OC]

yeah you should be able to get a bit more out of it... especially with a VOLTMOD :D

for example, my recently acquired AGKGA XP1700+ is running nicely stable @ 1750 @ 2V, on a 250W PSU and a fairly generic KT133A mobo :)

[Gh0s7 L3mUr]

Sounds sweet mird.

What are your temps like? What you using for cooling?

[mird-OC]

thanks :)

cooling is h2o, just my usual setup - liquidcc gen 1, eheim 1250, heatercore+2x120mm fans @ 5V.

ambient temp: 21C
coolant temp: 24C
cpu load temp: 37C (via senfu probe)

these temps are after crunching UD-ligandfit for 48 hours. it'll go higher, i'm sure, but my PSU is obviously holding me back - the 5V rail is already dipping pretty low.

CPU is ex Humantuckshop (one that he managed not to fry! :D).

[carlito]

Ok Thanks everyone for all the help I received - I am now the proud owner of an unlocked Athlon 1800XP.

I got the lacquer from an automobile place, and applying to the locks would have been the hardest thing I've done in a while - especially since I did it without the aid of a magnifying glass :D

But since I am posting on here it obviously has worked out fine.

The main reason I wanted to unlock my CPU was so I could set the multiplier lower and put the FSB higher.

Currently I am running stable (so far...... *fingers crossed*) at a FSB of 166 and the CPU At 10X (1660Mhz)

I have a Soltek drv5 Board so at 166 the PCI bus etc run at "native" speeds.

Anyways thanks for the help guys..... much appreciated :)

oh one last thing - my athlon chip is an AGOIA chip. How good are they at going to higher speeds?

Carlito

[mird-OC]

AGOIA is pretty much the best of the palominos... i'd expect you should be abel to hit 1800 without too much effort... maybe 1900-2000 if you wanna go hard :)

[Volodkovich]

yea, most AGOIA's reach 1800mhz on air, and if your lucky, 1900mhz.
[off topic]
Hey Mird, how did you get around the 3/4" fitting on the Eheim 1250 when the rest of your system i assume is 1/2"?
[/off topic]

[mird-OC]

Originally posted by Volodkovich
Hey Mird, how did you get around the 3/4" fitting on the Eheim 1250 when the rest of your system i assume is 1/2"?


i'm running closed loop, so i have a 3/4" T-joint (for the fill pipe) connected almost directly to the intake with a small section of thinwall silicone hose. on the other side of the T i've joined the 3/4" joint to some 1/2" tube by way of another small section of tube stretched over both and clamped.

this isn't really all that ideal, but it does the job... i've been meaning to go searching at the local plumbing supplies store to see if i can find the neccesary bits to make a gizmo that screws in as a replacement for the stock intake barb, consisting of a short length of 1" tube, a suitable thread, a 1/2" barb for the fill tube, and another 1/2" barb to complete the loop. the idea being to ease the pressure on the intake side.

but the current setup works alright so i'll stick with it until i can bothered pulling it to bits :)

[kyteam1]

UR ANSWER
DSE
they sell conductive pen for $34 dollars or somethin

[dustyslapper]

:rolleyes:

I know I can order it from Dick Smiths but I dont wanna wait that long. I would like it tommorow if I could

[kyteam1]

i live in christchurch and they have it in stock always......... go have a look at their website to c if it's avaliable in ur area

[Volodkovich]

ahh, i see...im waiting on an email, coz i think im going to have to do something the same.

[dustyslapper]

There aint a lot of it in the country at the moment. Maybe the wharehouse has some, but i'd have to use an actual store computer to tell you that, lol.
Retail Stores:
(with stock available)
Store Locations

Kerikeri, Tronix - Orewa.